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1920s America was a fascinating time for food. When else would it be possible to juxtapose Prohibition (popular no alcohol sentiment co-existing with underground speakeasies), exotic culinary experimentation (Chinese food was popular), opulent wealth (Delmonicos & 21), extreme poverty (tenement kitchens), social nutrition movements (home economics & Ladies Aid Organizations) and vegetarian alternatives (Dr. George Washington Carver was creating recipes for mock chicken made from peanuts).

What effect did Prohibition on American the food and dining habits in the 1920's?

"When Prohibition went into effect in America on January 16, 1920, it did more than stop the legal sale of alcoholic beverages in our country...[it] increased the production of soft drinks, put hundreds of restaurants and hotels out of business, spurred the growth of tea rooms and cafeterias, and destroyed the last vestiges of fine dining in the United States...Hotels tried to reclaim some of their lost wine and spirit profits by selling candy and soda pop The fruit cocktail cup, often garnished with marshmallows or sprinkled with powdered sugar, took the place of oysters on the half shell with champagne and a dinner party opener....The American wine industry, unable to sell its wines legally, quickly turned its vinyards over to juice grapes. But only a small portion of the juice from the grapes was marketed as juice. Most of it was sold for home-brewed wine. Needless to say, this home brew was not usually a sophisticated viniferous product, but sales of the juice kept many of the vineyards in profits throughout Prohibition. Prohibition also brought about cooking wines and artificially flavored brandy, sherry, and rum extracts. Housewives were advised to omit salt when using cooking wines, as the wines themselves had been salted to make them undrinkable...Some cooks gave up on alcoholic touches, real or faux, altogether...The bad alcohol, the closing of fine restaurants, the sweet foods and drinks that took alcohol's place, the artificial flavors that were used to simulated alcohol, all these things could not help but have a deletrious effect on the American palate."
---Fashionable Foods: Seven Decades of Food Fads, Sylvia Lovgren [MacMillan:New York] 1995 (p. 29-30)

"Prohibition, with its tremendous impact on the eating habits of the country, also had a great deal to do with the introduction of Italian food to the masses. Mary Grosvenor Ellsworth, in Much Depends upon Dinner, (1939), said this about Prohibition and pasta: "We cooked them [pastas] too much, we desecrated them with further additions of flour, we smothered them in baking dishes and store cheese. Prohibition changed all that. The Italians who opened up speakeasies by the thousand were our main recourse in time of trial. Whole hoards of Americans thus got exposed regularly and often to Italian food and got a taste for it. Now we know from experience that properly treated, the past is no insipid potato substitute. The food served in the speakeasies--with Mama doing the cooking and Papa making the wine in the basement--was not quite the same as the food the Italians had eaten in the Old Country. Sicilian cooking was based on austerity...But America was rich, and protein rich country, and the immigrants were happy to add these symbols of wealth to their cooking--and happy that their new American customers liked the result. Meatballs, rich meat sauces, veal cutlets cooked with Parmesean or with lemon, clams ctuffed with buttered herbed crumbs, shrimp with wine and garlic, and mozzarella in huge chunks to be eaten as appetizer were all foods of abundance, developed by Italian-Americans..."
---Fashionable Foods (p. 37-8)

What kind of impact did Prohibition have on American cookbooks in the 1920s?
Some continued to list recipes calling for small amounts of beer, wine and liquor as ingredients, others whistfully noted substitutions, still others omitted the ingredient completely. Grape juice is sometimes used instead of wine. There also seems to be an increase in the use of extracts (vanilla, lemon, almond). Extracts are alcohol-based flavorings. We checked several cookbooks for fruitcake and welsh rarebit recipes (these traditionally include small amounts of alcohol). This is what we found:

Every Womans Cook Book, Mrs. Chas. F. Moritz [Cupples & Leon:New York:1926] devotes several pages of its beverage chapter to making wine at home. Here the 1920s cook found instructions for blackberry, strawberrry, grape and cherry wine, sherry, sauterne and plum liquor and home. These wines were generally fermented for 10 days. We have no idea how strong (% alcohol) they would have been. This book also has a recipe for brandied peaches (without brandy), claret punch (with 1/2 gallon of claret wine). (p. 616-619), and Welsh rarebit (1/2 cup cream, ale or beer). (p.631)

The 1923 edition of Fannie Merritt Farmer's The Boston Cooking School Cook Book, lists 2 tablespoons brandy in a recipe for rich coffee cake (p. 637).

The President's fruit cake listed in Mrs. Peterson's Simplified Cooking, American School of Home Economics [Chicago, IL] 1926 (p. 185) lists grape juice as an ingredient, no mention of alcohol.

"Brandy used to be a common addition to fruit cakes. The taste cooked out, but it gave richness to the cake, and probably added to the keeping quality. In the recipes here given, cider, lemon juice or other fruit juice is substituted for it."
---Everybody's Cook Book, Isabel Ely Lord [Harcourt Brace:New York] 1924 (p. 139)

About speakeasy dining & drinks

"Speakeasy...Also "speak." A term popular during Prohibition to describe an establishment selling illegal alcoholic beverages. In order to gain entrance, you had to speak in a low voice through a small opening in the back door and tell the attendant inside who it was who sent you to the place. The term itself (which dates in print to 1889) may derive from the English "Speak-softly-shop," an underworld term for a smuggler's house where one might get liquor cheaply, its usage in this sense having been traced back to 1823. But with the onset of Prohibition in America, speakeasies sprang up overnight, sometimes in shabby sections of town, but often in the best neighborhoods, and many of these establishments were actually fine restaurants in their own right. New York's "21" club was a speakeasy during this period and had two bars, a dance floor, an orchestra, and diningrooms on two floors...French diplomat Paul Morande, visiting New York for the first time in 1925, reported his experience at a speakeasy: "...the food is almost always poor, the service deplorable."
---The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink, John F. Mariani [Lebhar-Friedman:New York] 1999 (p. 307)
[NOTE: check this book's entry on Prohibition for additional details].

"For one speakeasy with pretensions to any sort of elegance, there were dozens of drab cellar or tenement bars where no mone or thought was wasted on decor. When a speakeasy of some standing as a restaurant as well as a bar emerged, such as that well known New York repair, still legitimately flourishing, Jas and Charlie's 21 (sometimes referred to as "The Twenty-One Club," although it never had official club status), it was because discreet official protection had been guaranteed to it which made the investment gilt-edged."
---Eating in America: A History, Waverly Root & Richard de Rochemont [Morrow:New York] 1976 (p. 398)

"Salty hams and pretzels were offered at free lunch counters to whet customers' thirsts"
---American Heritage Cookbook: Illustrated History [American Heritage:New York] 1964 (p. 357)
[NOTE: this practice descends from the Old West.

What kinds of drinks were served?
That, of course depended upon the "quality" of the establishment. Speakeasys catering to wealthy clientele likely offered the same fine wines and mixed drinks that were available prior to Prohibition. Other establishments sold "bathtub" gin. We recommend: Drinking in America: A History, Mark Edward Lender and James Kirby Martin [Free Press:New York] 1982.

One of the best sources for period cocktail recipes is Tom Bullock's Ideal Bartender (c. 1917). This book was recently repinted as "173 Pre-Prohibition Cocktails" by Howling at the Moon Press. According to this source, champagne was very popular. Cheerio! A Book of Punches & Cocktails, How to Mix Them by Charles, formelry of Delmonicos (circa 1928) was recently reprinted by Ross Bolton. He offers mixology instructions for Brandy Sours, Minute Man Highballs, Stingers, Charleston Bracers, Martinis, Cholera Cocktails, Orange Gin Sparkles, Palm Beach Specials, Locomotives, & Whiskey Smashes. Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking School Cook Book [1918] offers a small selection of popular drink recipes, including one for champagne punch.

Great Gatsby Dining
Gatsby and his friends were adventurous diners. They dined in the finest New York clubs (Twenty One, Stork, Embassy, Simplon, Surf, Yale, and 51 1/2 East Fifty First, trendy ethnic restaurants (Chinatown) and catered elegantly at home.

Two of the best sources for learning about 1920s American restaurant dining are:

Fashionable Foods: Seven Decades of Food Fads, Sylvia Lovgren [MacMillan:New York] 1995 ("The Twenties," pps.1-40 )---excellent overview of popular foods & fads
America Eats Out: An Illustrated History of Restaurants, Taverns, Coffee Shops, Speakeasies, and Other Establishments, John Mariani [Morrow:New York] 1992 (p. "Joe Sent Me," pps. 89-103)---includes pictures

If you are trying to recreate the menu/ambiance of a speakeasy on par with the famous "21 Club" ask your librarian to help you find these books:

21 : Every Day was New Year's Eve : memoirs of a saloon keeper , H. Peter Kriendler, with H. Paul Jeffers. c1999.
"21": The Life and Times of New York's Favorite Club, Marilyn Kaytor (includes some menus & recipes)
21 Cookbook: recipes and lore from New York's fabled restaurant, Michael Lomomaco with Donne Forsman. c1995.

Need menus?
Use the Los Angeles Public Library's digital menu collection to identify what was served in all types of restaurants during the 1920s. Search by date (192*). Most of these menus are from California, but the food was also served in New York and other major metropolitan areas.

The Waldorf-Astoria, New York City

"With the passing of the war, America settled down to begin an era of onrushing prosperity. But it was also the era of Prohibition. I glance into menus, from 1921 on: Menus for dinners to honor such figures as Charles M. Schwab...Another significant change was evident in this era, as my menus show. The banquets became less sumptuous--more, shall I say, utilitarian? Certainly, the courses had been pared down. For instance, a dinner in February, 1924, for President Coolidge. (Note the "Appolinaris" and "White Rock" but no mention whatever of any wines or liquors.) Here is the menu:

Canape of Anchovies
Cream of Celery with Toasties
Celery Olives
Aiguillette of Striped Bass Joinville
Potatoes a la Hollandaise
Medaillon of Spring Lamb, Chasseur
Asparagus Tips au Gratin
***
Breast of Chicken a la Rose
Waldorf Salad, Mayonnaise
***
Venetian Ice Cream
Assorted Cakes Coffee
Apollinaris White Rock."
---Waldorf Astoria Cookbook, Ted James and Rosalind Cole [Bramhall House:New York] 1981 (p. 46-7)

Home cooking & family entertaining
What did average Americans eat in the 1920s? Food historians tell us we had a sweet tooth, a taste for the exotic, and a well-developed sense of ordered creativity. Translation? Fruit cocktails, Pineapple upside-down cake and Jell-O molds. Tea sandwiches, fancy salads, and chafing-dish recipes were also "in." City kitchens were wired with electricity meaning foods could be safely refrigerated at home. General Electric (and other companies) published cooking brochures touting frozen foods and safe meat storage.

Conversely? Modern vegetarianism also began the 1920s. Peanuts were promoted as healthy protein alternatives to animal meat. Raw foods were likewise promoted. Ladies Aid Societies and Domestic Scientists worked hard to introduce balanced, nutritional meals to poor, laboring people and help newly arrived immigrants adjust to American markets.

Need recipes & menus?

[1920] Breakfasts, Luncheons and Dinners: How to Plan Them/Mary Chambers
[1922] Good Housekeeping's Book of Menus
[1924] Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service/Ida C. Baily Allen (p. 20 offers daily home menus. Selected party menus below)

Mrs. Allen's party menus

A Spring or Summer Company Dinner
Swedish Leaf
Jellied Tomato Cream Bouillion Toasted Crackers
Roast Duck Broiled Potatoes
Carrots and Peas
Radish Roses Salted Almonds
Potato Biscuits Butter
Raspberry Mousse Little Decorated Cakes
Black Coffee
[Suggested table decorations: Daffodils, pussywillows, and individual pots of white or yellow crocuses to bear the place cards.]

A Winter Company Dinner
Shrimp Cocktail
Chicken Soup with Noodles
Crown Roast of Lamb Mashed Potatoes
Peas
Entire-Wheat Rolls Butter
Pickled Peaches Celery Hearts
Steamed Marmalade Pudding Hard Sauce
Black Coffee
(If desired omit the cocktail and add a salad, as French artichoke canape or Jane Oaker.)
[Suggested table decorations: White narcissi, pink carnations, asparagus fern, and individual old-fashioned bouquets of the two made up with a carnation in the centre surrounded by the narcissi, then with violets.] (p. 874)
"Parties
Party refreshments may be served buffet style as described for formal afternoon tea. In this case, the menus described for club refreshments may be used. If, however, the party is of such nature as to call for the formal service of a late evening supper, the guests seated at the table, or served buffet style, menus of the following type may be used.

Menus for Party Suppers
Hot or Jellied Consomme Bread Sticks
Chicken a la King
Cream Cheese Sandwiches Brown Bread Sandwiches
Olives Salted Nuts Candied Ginger
Nuts and Date Salad Mayonnaise
Strawberry Bavarian Cream Little Pound Cakes Russian Wafers
Coffee
Chicken Broth Whipped Cream Rolls
Crabmeat Croquettes Peas Brown Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches
Jellied Tomato and Pimiento Salad Olives Celery Hearts
Nesselrode Pudding Macaroons
Coffee
Fruit Cocktail or Strawberries in Halves of Melons
Jellied Tongue Harlequin Salad
Buttered Baking-Powder Biscuits
Olives Salted Nuts
Biscuit Tortoni Angel Cake Squares Bonbons
Iced Coffee" (p. 883-4)

Appetizers & hors d'oeuvres
The following list is culled from Mrs. Allen on Cooking, Menus, Service, Ida C. Bailey Allen (c. 1924), Chapter IX: "Foods that begin a meal" (p. 103-118)
Canapes, hot and cold, cocktails (fruit, oysters, clam, lobster, crabmeat), relishes (olives, pickle, radish roses, plain/stuffed celery, pickled pears or peaches, salted nuts). Cold canapes include caviar, sardine and anchovy, Indian (chutney-based), smoked salmon, and stuffed eggs. Hot canapes include oyster toast, shrimp or lobster toast and mushroom toast. Other savoury appetizers: sardines in aspic, stuffed pimientos, Swedish loaf, anchovy toast, jellied anchovy moulds, salmon and caviar rolls, finnan haddie shells, and savoury cheese balls.

Fannie Farmer's canape recipes from the Boston Cooking School Cook Book [1918] are almost identical to those offered in her 1923 edition.

Buffet suppers from Mrs. Wilson's Cook Book, Mary A. Wilson [J.B. Lippincott:Philadelphia] 1920

Buffet supper
No. 1
Salted nuts, celery, tuna fish a la King, asparagus salad, Russian dressing, ice cream, cake, coffee
No. 2
Olives, pickles, chicken salad, apple jelly, rice croquettes, ice cream, cake, coffee
No. 3
Olives, radishes, baked ham sandwiches, potato and celery salad, ice cream, cake, coffee.

Molded/fruited Jello-salads, fruit cocktail, sliced pineapples & bananas (maraschino cherry ok)
Deviled eggs, celery, olives, pickles, salted nuts (almonds, pecans, peanuts, filberts)
Bread sticks, Parker House rolls, saltine-type crackers, potato chips
Caesar salad, Waldorf salad
Finger sandwiches...peanut butter & jelly, ham, turkey, chicken salad, tomato, egg salad, cream cheese
Fried chicken, baked ham
Pineapple Upside down cake, angel or devil's food cakes, ice cream & chocolate sauce, chocolate pudding. Canned peaches work well.
Beverage service:
Soft drinks garnished with fruit & fruit juices (ginger ale with maraschino cherry juice, decorated with cherries), Ginger Ale, Coca-Cola, Kool-Aid, Lemonade, punch, coffee, cocoa & Orange Pekoe tea

Which American brands were popular in the 1920s? Advertisements are a good place to start.

WOMEN'S MAGAZINES & NEWSPAPERS

American Cookery Magazine, Boston Cooking School Magazine Company, Boston Mass., May, 1925:
Rumford Baking Powder,Cream of Wheat, Kellogg's All-Bran, Walter Baker Chocolate, Slade's Spices, Cox's Instant Powdered Gelatine, White House Coffee, Comet Rice, Junket, Malt Breakfast Food, Jell-O, Virginia Dare Butterscotch Sauce, Knox Gelatine, Lea & Perrins Sauce, Gold Medal Flour, Royal Baking Powder

Woman's Home Companion, September, 1929:
Campbell's Tomato Soup, Post Grape Nuts, Libby's Evaporated Milk, Aunt Jemima Pancake Flour, Heinz Tomato Ketchup, Cocomalt (chocolate flavor food drink), 3 Minute Oat Flakes, Armour's Star Ham, Sunkist California Orange Juice, Fleishman's Yeast, Gulden's Mustard, Sanka Coffee (caffeine-free), Knox Gelatine, Eagle Brand Condensed Milk, Minute Tapioca, Snowdrift (canned fat product for cooking), Beech-Nut Peanut Butter, College Inn Chicken A La King (can), Underwood Deviled Ham, Ovaltine, Sunshihe Crackers, Cookies & Cakes

[Morristown NJ] Daily Record newspaper, May 1-15, 1922:
Kellogg's Corn Flakes, Triscuit crackers (Nabisco), Crisco, Shredded Wheat, Argo Corn Starch, Beech Nut Gum, Nabisco Assorted Sugar Wafers, Goodman's Noodles, Sunkist Juicy Oranges & Lemons, Swift's Bacon, Wheatena

ADVERTISING COOKBOOKS
Duke Univeristy has uploaded several company advertising cookbooks from the 1920s. They are no longer protected by copyright. You can use these books to download actual recipes and pictures of the product. Check out: Jello, Fleischmann's yeast, (yeast) Minute Tapioca, Junket,Blue Ribbon Malt Extracts, Jelke Good Luck Margarine, Sunshine crackers, Maxwell House coffee,Calumet Baking Powder, Dromedary Products(figs, coconut, grapefruit etc.), and Sunkist fruit(oranges, grapefruits),

Story of a Pantry Shelf, Butterick Publishing Co., 1925. Popular American brands and their histories.

Need to make something simple and interesting for class? We recommend Ice Box Cake!

New American food introductions:
[1920] La Choy Food Products, Eskimo Pies, Good Humor ice cream, Baby Ruth & Oh Henry! candy bars,
[1921] Wonder Bread, Betty Crocker (General Mills baking mixes), Land O'Lakes (brand butter), Sanka (freeze dried decaffeinated coffee), Chuckles (fruit jelly candies), White Castle (fast food chain), Lindy's (NYC restaurant famous for cheesecake), Sardis (NYC restaurant of the stars), Quaker Oats quick oats
[1922] Clapp's Vegetable Soup (first commercially prepared U.S. baby food), Girl Scout Cookies, Pep (breakfast cereal), Gummi Bears, Mounds, Charleston Chew, Clark Bars (candy bars)
[1923] Pet Milk (canned product), Macoun apples, Welch's grape jelly, Popsicles, Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, Mounds (candy bar), Yoo-Hoo chocolate drink, Sanka Coffee
[1924] Caesar Salad, Wheaties (breakfast cereal), Bit-O-Honey (candy bars), fruit-flavored Life Savers, Beech-Nut Coffee, Stouffer's restaurants (NYC), Birdseye brand frozen foods
[1925] Honey Maid Graham Crackers, Mr. Goodbar (candy bar)
[1926] Good Humor (ice cream novelties), Safeway & IGA (supermarket chains), Hormel Flavor-Sealed Ham (canned), Liederkranz cheese, Milk Duds (candy)
[1927] Lender's (bagels), Gerber's (baby food), Pez (breath mint/candies), Mike & Ike (coated fruit-gel candies), Pez (candy with personal disenser, Kool-Aid (powdered drink mix), homogenized milk, Marriott's Hot Shoppes (chain restaurant)
[1928] Rice Krispies (breakfast cereal), Progresso (brand foods), Nehi (orange beverage), Velveeta cheese, Peter Pan Peanut butter, Drum Sticks (ice cream cones), Reeses Peanut Butter Cups, Butterfingers & Heath bars (candybars), Barricini Candy (NYC)
[1929] Gerber canned baby food, Columbo Yogurt, Oscar Meyer wieners, Karmelkorn, Snickers (candy bar) Twizzlers (licorice) , 7-Up
---SOURCES: The Food Timeline, The Food Chronology, James Trager [Henry Holt:New York] 1995 (p. 426-460), The Century in Food, Beverly Bundy [Collectors Press:Portland OR] 2002(p. 68-71) & Candy: The Sweet History, Beth Kimmerle [Collectors Press:Portland OR] 2003 (p. 35)

Día 1	Día 2
Desayuno	Desayuno
zumo de naranja y una rebanada de pan integral con mermelada dietética.	leche desnatada con café o té y 3 galletas integrales o 30 gr. de cereales.
A media mañana	A media mañana
un yogurt desnatado	una pieza de fruta
Comida	Comida
ensalada de zanahoria, tomate, lechuga y atún, y de postre ensalada de frutas.	verduras hervidas o a la plancha y filete de ternera o pollo a la plancha.
Merienda	Merienda
una infusión de té rojo o té verde con 3 galletas integrales.	zumo de naranja o pomelo y una tostada de pan integral con requesón.
Cena	Cena
Hamburguesa de pollo con tomate natural y ensalada. Una infusión.	Sopa de verduras. Fiambre de pavo, con espárragos, tomate. Una infusión

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